Wat Saket

Wat Saket Ratchawora Mahawihan: The Temple of the Washed Hair

Wat Saket Ratchawora Mahawihan, universally known as Wat Saket, is a prominent Buddhist temple situated in the Pom Prap Sattru Phai district of Bangkok, Thailand. Its origins trace back to the Ayutthaya period when it was referred to as Wat Sakae. Following the establishment of Bangkok as the capital, King Rama I undertook a significant renovation of the temple and bestowed upon it its current name, which translates to "to wash the hair." Tradition holds that the king paused at Wat Saket to bathe and cleanse himself upon his return from a military campaign before entering the city.

Phu Khao Thong: The Golden Mountain

A striking feature within the Wat Saket complex is Phu Khao Thong, an imposing artificial hill crowned with a chedi. This structure began as an ambitious project by King Rama III to construct a large chedi, but the soft Bangkok soil proved unable to support its immense weight, leading to its collapse during construction. Over time, the abandoned mud-and-brick edifice naturally took on the appearance of a hill, becoming overgrown and locally nicknamed "the mountain." It also served as a strategic lookout point for soldiers. Later, during the reign of King Rama IV, a smaller chedi was erected on the hill, which was completed and gilded early in the reign of his son, King Rama V. A relic of the Buddha, brought from Sri Lanka by Prince Pritsadang, was enshrined within this chedi. Modern concrete walls were added in the 1940s to prevent erosion, and the temple itself was rebuilt in the early 20th century using Carrara marble.

Festivals and Historical Significance

Wat Saket hosts an annual festival in November, featuring a memorable candlelight procession that ascends Phu Khao Thong to the chedi, which is adorned with a long red robe. This tradition, observed since the reign of King Rama V, mirrors the "Hae Pha Khuen That" festival in Nakhon Si Thammarat province. During this time, devotees inscribe their names and those of their family members on the robe, offering prayers for their wishes to be fulfilled. Concurrently, a grand Loi Krathong festival takes place, enlivened by various sideshows and exhibits that have made it a well-known event among Bangkok residents.

Historically, Wat Saket played a somber role in the early Rattanakosin period. Due to a tradition of avoiding cremations within the city walls, Wat Saket, located outside the fortified area, became a frequent site for funerals. This practice intensified during severe cholera outbreaks, such as the one in 1820, when the temple became the city's primary receiving ground for the deceased. The overwhelming number of bodies led to inadequate cremation facilities, leaving many exposed and attracting large flocks of vultures. This grim spectacle led to the phrase "Raeng Wat Saket" ("vultures of Wat Saket") entering popular parlance, symbolizing death. The modern Wat Saket, with its marble structures and the prominent Phu Khao Thong, stands today as a significant religious site and a popular tourist attraction, offering a glimpse into Bangkok's rich history and cultural traditions.